$1,199 + tax
$200 promotional unit + $999 standard installation.
See package →Most “leaking water heater” calls are one of five things: a wet fitting, a dripping T&P (temperature-and-pressure) valve, a drain-valve seep, harmless condensation, or water from the tank shell itself. Shell leaks mean replace the tank. Fittings can sometimes be repaired. Send a photo of where the water starts—not only the puddle on the floor.
$200 promotional unit + $999 standard installation.
See package →Confirmed standard replacement.
See 50-gal →Subject to venting and gas-line conditions.
Gas installation →Expansion tank from $149. Extra piping from $199. Code, attic, leak damage and relocation are approved in writing. We do not promise 24/7 coverage.
Look at the top connections, the T&P discharge pipe, the drain valve near the bottom, the pan, and the tank jacket. Water from the steel tank body, especially with rust streaks, is end-of-life. Water only at a threaded fitting may be a wrench job. Continuous T&P discharge is a pressure or temperature problem—never plug the pipe.
Repair can fit a newer tank with a failed valve, anode-related fitting, or loose flex connector. Replacement is the honest answer for a corroded tank, a unit over ~10–15 years with a leak, or when repair cost approaches a new installed package. Charlotte’s hard water shortens tank life; we see shell failures on heaters that “still make hot water.”
If it is safe, close the cold-water inlet. If water is near electricity, stay back and open the breaker from a dry place. Mop only after power is isolated. Then text SAFE the tank photo, the leak close-up and whether the unit is electric or gas.
Water from the bottom of the steel tank with rust streaks is almost always a failed tank—replace it. Wet threads at the top or a flex connector can be a repair on a newer unit. T&P discharge that will not stop is pressure or temperature, never a capped pipe. A drain valve seep is often a cheap part. Sweating in a humid closet can look like a leak; a pan that stays empty while the jacket is dry is a clue.
An attic leak can ruin a ceiling overnight—treat it as urgent, not tomorrow’s project. A garage puddle on concrete is still a live electrical or gas hazard. A tiny fitting drip on a 3-year tank can wait for a scheduled repair; a tank-body leak or T&P dumping water cannot. Tanks do not “burst” like a balloon as often as movies show, but a failed shell can dump 40–50 gallons fast.
You cannot patch a pressure vessel with epoxy and call it safe. Repair means valves, elements, thermostats, T&P, drain or flex lines on a sound jacket. If the replacement path is the published $1,199 or $1,349 package, chasing parts on a 12-year tank is usually the expensive choice.
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Water from the steel tank body, especially with rust at the bottom, means replacement. Do not epoxy a pressure vessel. Photograph the origin, then the full tank.
Shut the cold-water inlet if you can without standing in water next to electricity. Water from the tank body means replacement. A loose fitting can sometimes be repaired. Photograph where the leak starts.
Shut the cold-water inlet if you can without standing in water next to electricity. Water from the tank body means replacement. A loose fitting can sometimes be repaired. Photograph where the leak starts.
Shut the cold-water inlet if you can without standing in water next to electricity. Water from the tank body means replacement. A loose fitting can sometimes be repaired. Photograph where the leak starts.
Shut the cold-water inlet if you can without standing in water next to electricity. Water from the tank body means replacement. A loose fitting can sometimes be repaired. Photograph where the leak starts.
Continuous T&P discharge is pressure or temperature—never cap the pipe. A brief drip after heating can be expansion. Send a photo of the pipe and whether water is also at the tank jacket.
Shut the cold-water inlet if you can without standing in water next to electricity. Water from the tank body means replacement. A loose fitting can sometimes be repaired. Photograph where the leak starts.
Shut the cold-water inlet if you can without standing in water next to electricity. Water from the tank body means replacement. A loose fitting can sometimes be repaired. Photograph where the leak starts.
Shut the cold-water inlet if you can without standing in water next to electricity. Water from the tank body means replacement. A loose fitting can sometimes be repaired. Photograph where the leak starts.
Shut the cold-water inlet if you can without standing in water next to electricity. Water from the tank body means replacement. A loose fitting can sometimes be repaired. Photograph where the leak starts.
Shut the cold-water inlet if you can without standing in water next to electricity. Water from the tank body means replacement. A loose fitting can sometimes be repaired. Photograph where the leak starts.
Shut the cold-water inlet if you can without standing in water next to electricity. Water from the tank body means replacement. A loose fitting can sometimes be repaired. Photograph where the leak starts.
Address, fuel, size and clear photos. We confirm the standard package or the extras.
Ask SAFE is a starting guide, not a diagnosis. Gas odor, CO alarm, fire or water on electrical parts: leave and call 911 or the utility.